The Minox Developing Tank, as ingenious as the camera, features spiral loading of the film around a drum assuring a free distribution of developer and even development. It is a marvelous instrument, having provided for many years, in many hands, outstanding results. Be sure to read Peter Zimmerman's article at the end of the Minox Processing Labs, Hobbyist Section. I suspect, however, that the extreme 1:100 dilution of Rodinal, that I favor for Tech Pan (and Agfa Copex), will provide, at the 53cc capacity, insufficient developer and will accentuate the rather pronounced shoulder. I had suspected that insufficient solution might be a consideration with PMK Pyro, since it also is a rather dilute solution, but Oliver Pyper reports from Berlin, success with PMK and the Minox tank.

Tech Pan film, 25 ASA 100 ccm, PMK developer in beaker, Minox developing tank 6 minutes at 20 deg C. Presoak 1 min with water and photoflo Empty presoak solution Add PMK solution until the tank is filled For agitation, every minute (takes about 8 seconds) Pour out about 20 ccm of the developer from the tank into the beaker, then fill up the tank again from the beaker.

Wishing to increase the total volume while retaining the marvelous concept, I discovered a 4oz."pill bottle" that just fit the recess in the lid of a 250cc stainless steel Nikor developing tank, cut it down to just fit in the closed tank, drilled some holes in it, and slots for the ends of the film. I carefully glued a narrow plastic strip in a spiral pattern around the bottle to guide the film as I wound it. I now have a tank which permits me to wind a roll of 42 exposure Minox film, emulsion side out. I have, for 30 plus years, promised to make a more elegant version, but the original prototype still works perfectly, in spite of its appearance. To hold the film in place, I made, with a jeweler's saw, one slot at the bottom at the beginning of the spiral, and three at the top, positioned for 30, 36, and 42 exposure lengths. I pass a half inch of film through the slot at the bottom, fold it back, and squeeze it to crimp it. Then winding the film on to the drum, I finally slide the end into the appropriate slot at the top, where it is crimped in the same manner. To secure the end for short lengths, I use the same artists tape I use to attach the film to the takeup spool..

Another alternative is a spiral reel such as the Honeywell Nikor stainless steel Minox Reel, which is used in a standard developing tank.

Although no longer manufactured, the Stainless Steel Minox (9.5mm) Reel can still be found. It is a useful device, permitting the use of a standard stainless steel developing tank, and, if multiple reels are available, permits the development of more than one filmstrip in a single session.

TO LOAD REEL

1. Place reel flat on table top and along one edge of the table, with open face of the reel upward, as in below figure.
2. Holding film in right hand, with emulsion side inward toward the reel center, and with hand just over the table edge, hook the open hole in the end of the film over the small catch provided on one of the reel legs near its center.
3. Film must be inserted at an angle of 30' to 45' from vertical, so that it enters the spiral lower face of the reel "on the bias". with the upper film edge outward from the center of the reel.
4. Slowly turn the reel with the left hand, keeping the reel flat on table, and retaining the 30' to 45' entering angle of the film with the right hand. The film will wind onto the reel and will right itself Info a vertical position inside the reel.

NOTES: We strongly recommend a little practice in daylight with an exposed piece of film before attempting to load the reel in complete darkness.

The "Minox" film, being small and tightly wound, has a tendency to curl very closely when removed from its cartridge. Loading the film on the reel will be much easier if the film is first rewound backwards on its small core to remove some of this curl before loading on the NIKOR reel. Winding the film, backwards on a small diameter rod before loading on the reel will be found to be even more effective in removing the "fight" from the film.

1. Place the loaded reel or reels in the tank and put the cover on firmly.
2. Bright lights may now be turned on and the developer poured in through the large segment of the filler mouth. Tilt the tank while filling by placing the cap under one side, so that small segment of filler mouth, the air vent, is upward.
3. Place the cap over the filler mouth.
4. Shake gently and frequently during development and fixing.
5. Keep developer, wash water. and fixer as near the same temperature as possible.
6. Use high quality, fresh chemicals, thoroughly dissolved.
7. Keep all parts of the NIKOR clean.

Every photographer has his own methods of development. However, we have the following suggestions that will aid in securing perfect negatives.

1. When using freshly mixed solutions, particularly developer, let them stand fifteen minutes or longer to allow dissolved air to escape.
2. Agitate the tank moderately. We recommend that the tank be agitated at the start of development and fixing by inverting and gently shaking, repeating every two minutes.
3. After developing, fill and empty the tank several times with fresh wafer, then pour in the fixer.
4. Be sure to agitate the tank when fixing as gas bubbles often form when the acid fixer strikes the alkaline developer.
5. The infernal temperature of the tank may be accurately controlled by placing it in a large pan of water, the temperature of which can be easily checked and maintained.
6. Let the water run vigorously into the reel when washing as a fast flow reduces washing time although this is not true of paper prints.
7. Wipe the surplus water from the films when drying. This can be done by hanging the film with a strong clip and drawing damp viscose sponges slowly down each side of the film.
8. Stainless steel does not ordinarily rust or tarnish even under severe conditions of photographic use. However, any deposit of dirt may be readily removed with "Bab-0" or "Bon Ami." An overnight soaking in a 25% solution of Nitric Acid will render the tank chemically clean. DO NOT use Hydrochloric or Sulfuric Acid.
9. When through developing, it is best to dry the tank before putting it away. Films are liable to stick the next time it is loaded if it is still wet. The reel may be dried by artificial heat if if is to be used immediately.
10. It is advisable, when using film that has been tightly wound in small cassettes, to load the film into the Reel emulsion side out. This prevents the possibility of two layers of film coming close together.

• To cover one Minox Reel: 4 oz.
• To cover three Minox Reels: 8 oz.

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