Because of the limited number of emulsions available commercially, slitting film for the Minox camera has been a long standing tradition. It is a small step to slitting film for 120 or 220 roll film cameras. Kodak Infrared Film, now discontinued in 4x5 format is not available in 120 format. In addition, Fuji Super HR is available only in 16mm, UNsprocketed 35mm, and 105mm. Aha! Two great films, slit, spooled, and ready for 120 cameras. 120 film is approximately 61mm wide - interestingly just a Minox width less than the 70mm of the infrared film. The same slitter block can be used to slit film for 120 cameras, only the base need be new. If only 70mm film will be slit, a narrower base may be made.
	If 105 mm film is (also) to be used, a wider base can be made and the appropriate slitter block guides manufactured. In both cases, adding machine paper is used over the film to prevent scratching while slitting. The procedure is exactly the same as used when slitting film for Minox cameras. If either film is sprocketed, the slitting path can be altered to miss the sprocket holes. In the case of the 70mm infrared film, the space between the holes is less than the standard 120 width. If both sets of holes are removed, the film is too narrow to load satisfactorily onto a spiral reel for development. I have chosen to leave a set of holes, and mentally consider the lost image area when visualizing the image with the camera. I always spool the film with the remaining sprocket holes in the same direction so I know which part of the image is being impacted when in the camera. One must remember whether the lost area is at the top, bottom, right or left of the image as seen on the ground glass or with the viewfinder.

120 film is approximately 61mm wide and 830 mm long. A jig can be made to cut it to length prior to slitting. Backing papers and spools can either be saved or usually obtained from a pro shop in your area where they are usually discarded. Since the combination is wound from the loose (un-taped) end, and the film tends to "crawl" as it is wound over an increasing diameter on the spool, the problem is to get the film taped to the backing paper in exactly the right place.

A trough exactly like the one used to slit film, but the width of the backing paper, helps to keep the paper and film aligned during the winding process. I use the insert from a Graflex Rollfilm Back as a winder, positioned so, when the paper is partially wound and ready for the insertion of the film, the paper end is 1270 mm from the spool. If the paper is wound tightly, the film may be "inserted", pressed under the roller between the already wound and the unwound paper. When resumed, the winding of the paper draws the film into the roll and allows the free end to move in relation to the backing paper. When the free end of the film is about to "enter" the spool, a piece of artists tape is attached to THE FILM (NOT ALSO TO THE PAPER!), and as the sandwich is drawn onto the roller a slight pressure is maintained to attach the tape to the backing paper AS IT IS ROLLED ONTO THE ROLLER!. In this manner the film will be flat against the backing paper, and when pulled through the camera, will advance properly with the paper.

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